I stayed behind in Bismarck after Russ left, to pick up a shipment of bike tires at a local bike shop. Even though I’d booked an extra day at Fort Abraham Lincoln, I decided to leave a day early, hoping that would help me find an open spot at one of the campgrounds near Kathryn, North Dakota—three days ride from Bismarck for Russ. I was worried about getting a space for the Labor Day weekend.

I wasn’t at my best the day I left—Scooby kept me up all night before, with diarrhea and vomiting. Then, about 8:30, he woke me again, this time because he was having a seizure. (Not really a seizure, although it looks like one, as he flops about, unable to get his balance. They call it Old Dog Vestibular Syndrome, and it’s actually more like a violent attack of vertigo.) There was nothing I could do but hold him until it passed.

So it was 10:30 before I even got breakfast, and plans to take a nice shower got cancelled. I got on the road, picked up Russ’s tires and headed out. At a gas stop, I grabbed two bottles of Dr. Pepper, in case I encountered Russ on the road, and got a BLT for me.

If North Dakota is part of “the great sea of grass,” then I was sailing on a calm day. The North Dakota hills roll along in long, low waves. Russ described it as “riding forever toward the horizon.” The monotony was significantly lifted by the sudden appearance of lots of ponds covered with waterfowl. Most didn’t have any pullover areas, but one that I managed to stop at had Coots (hundreds of Coots!), Ruddy Ducks, Black Ducks and Mallards, Gannets, and even a Northern Shoveler or two. Not sure where all this water came from. (Later, I found out this is the “Prairie Potholes” region, where low-lying areas collect rainwater and snowmelt into thousands of small ponds.)

Just outside of Gackle (duck hunting Mecca of North America) I met Russ, and pulled over to hand him a cold Dr. Pepper, which he was thrilled to get. I can imagine it was a welcome sight, as he’d been riding all day in the ‘90s and full sun. After making sure he had enough water, I left him to finish the ride into Gackle, where he had a Warm Showers host waiting. 

I was late getting to Clausen Springs Recreational Area, and couldn’t find a camp host or information area, so I spent some time fruitlessly searching for an open campsite until I found an amiable couple who helped to point me in the right direction. They even headed out on their ATV to help me scope out sites. The only places with electric hookup we could find were pretty squished, not to mention in full sun. I settled instead for a large, private, grassy campsite, fully shaded, above the lake. 

My campsite is huge!

I actually double-checked to make sure I hadn’t taken a group site by mistake. The only drawback is the oak trees and the acorns—you take cover when a breeze comes through. Most of the campsites are well spread out (with the exception of the electric hookup sites) and shaded, there is a small, pretty lake, with a two-mile hiking trail around it, and there are delicious wild plums!

As in New England, the nights here are getting cooler, even though the days can still be in the 80s or above. Most mornings find us in our sweatshirts.

Saturday, September 3 was my birthday, and Russ spared no expense in taking me to the finest eatery around. 

As always, town residents were interested in hearing about our trip, and we learned the area’s history.

I finally figured out how to work the water stanchions here (after three days) and refilled my water jugs, and Russ got one day of total relaxation before heading out again on Monday. I have one more day of North Dakota before heading to Minnesota and Lake Carlos.