CK texted me on Friday—could they stay at my campsite if they detoured to Assateague? Strong winds were making it hard for them to make the mileage they’d planned on. They showed up just in time for me to make them a home-made dinner, which was much appreciated. Next morning, they were up early, to make (hopefully) 65+ miles that day.

I made one more loop of the marsh trail with my binoculars, hoping to see what I thought were eared grebes again (no luck), then packed up to head to Kiptopeke State Park, just north of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. That was when I discovered that my camper’s drivers side fender was broken. No idea how it happened. Luckily, a neighbor had some duct tape on hand, so the fender is secure until I can get a replacement.

My last look at the mother and baby that had wandered through my campground several times. Awww!

The rest of the day turned out to be adventurous, if not picturesque. I was just feeling peckish when what did I see but THE GREAT MACHIPONGO CLAM SHACK. And the food (all fried, of course) was oh so delicious! If you’re ever in Nassawadox, VA, check it out.

Back on the road, I thought I’d check out the Barrier Islands Center and Machipongo Almshouse Museum—an interesting, if somewhat disjointed historical site. Not what i was expecting. Apparently, the ”culture” of the Virginia barrier islands consisted promarily of their history as hunting clubs and resort hotels for white people.

Back in the car, I discovered the dogs had ripped open and consumed an entire bag of peanut butter flavored treats. Let out, Moe guzzled water and then proceeded to disgorge all of his plundered treats. Scooby seems unfazed, probably because Moe didn’t let him have any.

Kiptopeke State Park is NOT my idea of a great campground—it’s row after row of closely-spaced RV sites in a flat, nearly treeless field, and I am smack in the middle of it, right between the family with several screaming children and the two neighboring RVs whose dogs keep getting into fights. To be fair, it does have some good features, the best of which is HOT SHOWERS IN A HEATED BATHHOUSE. I headed straight for that, after 4 days without bathing. I do find it ironic that, now that I have a water hookup and hot water, I don’t need it.

Oh, and one last exciting thing: I, ever the sucker for a cute dog, was meeting a neighbor’s boxer puppy. I bent down, her head came up, and now I have a hole in my lip. I’m hoping it will stop bleeding soon.

Tomorrow we will check out the many trails around Kiptopeke, and then we will have more positive things to say about this place (I hope).