Now this is more like it! Newport News Park Campground turned out to be a very pleasant surprise: just off I-64 past the naval base, a peaceful oasis of woods and water on the Lee Hall Reservoir. The trees are just showing a delicate fringe of new leaves, and birds abound. I am sorry we will only be here overnight—there are lots of trails and many historic sites. I will content myself with visiting Colonial Williamsburg tomorrow, on my way toward Richmond and Lake Anna.

Kiptopeke did turn out to have more redeeming qualities, as expected, once I got out of the campground. The pups and I walked through a lovely woodland trail to the bay and a fishing pier, where this sight greeted us:

Concrete boats! (who knew?) A result of steel shortages during WWII, they were used mostly as supplies transport during the war. These are permanently moored ”as a breakwater for the ferry system,” according to the sign on the pier. They have also become a habitat for lots of marine life, including hundreds of brown pelicans.

Russ has rearranged his bags (read: unloaded to Nancy’s car), and is now traveling lighter. I think he is finally wrapping his mind around this gargantuan undertaking. Tomorrow he leaves Yorktown on the Adventure Cycling route westward.