Grand Portage

On the way to Ontario we came across the Grand Portage National Monument and on a whim I turned in. A quick check confirmed that Moe would not be able to go into the museum exhibits or even the reconstructed trading post and portage site, but did we know there was a rendezvous going on this weekend? Moe was allowed there, so off we went.

I know a little about rendezvous, thanks to my dear friend Suzi Day. She and her husband Mark participate in rendezvous in Pennsylvania and elsewhere, dressing and living in authentic French and Indian War era lifestyle. From her, I learned that reenactments always involve reenacting an historic battle. No battle? It’s a rendezvous or encampment. (And now you know,)

I was delighted to find out that this encampment was depicting the same era as Mark and Suzi do—early to mid-1700s—and I knew Suzi would want me to take as many pictures and talk to as many people as I could. This gathering showed the dress and daily lives of those involved in the early fur trade—there were trappers, portageurs (the historic version of truckers and cargo ships), traders, and their wives and families.

I was so glad we came—we spent nearly the whole afternoon there, talking to everyone and having the best time! Both of us are interested in history, I was eager to know more about the rendezvous that Suzi does, and everyone there was happy to talk about and demonstrate what they do. A group of portageurs had shelters set up against their canoes, and they were playing games of the period. They showed me a few, then invited me to try my hand at Close the Box, a betting game. I won in a clean sweep (beginners luck), but we were having such a good time that one gentleman gave me a portable version of the game, complete with real bone dice.

it’s hard to see in the last picture, but there is nothing covering their legs above their woolen leggings. Although their voluminous shirts cover their upper legs, it’s clear there is nothing but a Native American style breechcloth under the shirt. I asked them about that arrangement. They pointed out that full pants (and certainly deerskin pants, as Canadian portageurs are often incorrectly depicted), would quickly become waterlogged, as they need to get in and out of canoes on a portage. The removable leggings stayed dry and warm.

One of the last men we spoke with lamented the dwindling numbers of participants. “Young people just aren’t interested in our history,” he said. Russ, who holds a volume of knowledge about the history of Ashfield that will probably die with him, agreed.