Aztec Ruins

The next day, we visited Aztec Ruins, a well-preserved Ancestral Puebloan ruin even larger than Salmon. I got way more pictures here, (probably because I was not dealing with the emotional overload of yesterday). At Aztec, the original archaeologist undertook to restore the main kiva in the 1930s. While one could question the authenticity of his restoration, there is no question that this kiva is awe-inspiring. As with most kivas, you descend from ground level down ladders or steps into the kiva space.

Inside kiva, looking back to main entrance
Reconstructed flat kiva roof
Reconstructed pillar, with original foundation stones
You can see the original stone steps below the new wooden ones
Outside room, looking into kiva

This kiva had two unusual features—one, across from the main entrance, a separate set of steps led to an upper balcony-type area, open to the kiva. Second, it was encircled by small rooms at ground level, which gave access to the kiva via ladders built into the walls. What their purpose was is uncertain, although they might possibly have allowed families or clans their own entrance—or have allowed celebrants or performers to enter from different places.

Aztec Ruins also allowed you to enter the Pueblo rooms themselves, to experience what it would have been like living there. Front rooms entered onto the main plaza, and they would have been where much of the work was done, as they had the best light. Moving back through three or four rooms to the back wall of the Pueblo, you would have moved from living areas to storage areas at the far back, where there was the least light.

A rare 4-way doorway
T-shaped doorway, a common design element
Remains of a rush mat to divide rooms. It still hangs here, 800 years later
Intact ceiling, showing the cross beams and adobe floor of the room above

Beside Aztec Ruins (west) is another large Pueblo (Aztec East) which has never been excavated. It was the more heavily looted site; now it remains unexcavated out of respect for the descendants of its builders.

You can clearly see later repairs/building on this wall
One of the kivas; remnants of the roof beams still intact
The back wall of the Pueblo is precisely aligned to the summer solstice (projections are modern drains)
A rare three-walled kiva
Even in ruins, it is still three stories high

A striking feature of Aztec is the decorative band on the west wall, made from set-in green stones.


The original excavation in the 1930s had been done under the auspices of the American Museum of Natural History, but that institution has “loaned” many artifacts back to the museum at Aztec. I was particularly interested in woven objects, as they tend to be rare (fibers do not preserve as well as stone or ceramic).

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Child’s sandal
Woven tump band, worn across the forehead to support loads on one’s back

Somehow I had not been aware of Aztec Ruins when I was working at Salmon, even though we visited several of the Ancestral Puebloan sites in the area. I was very glad we made the visit, even though we were definitely hot and cranky at the end. Moe, as usual, hung out in the air-conditioned car while we were gone, but was none the less miffed by our absence.

That evening, after a much-needed shower, I had a delightful time doing show and tell with a fellow stitcher, and we talked quite late into the evening.